Catbells

About Catbells

Catbells stands as the Lake District's most beloved family fell—a "shapely topknott" rising prominently from Derwentwater's western shore that has captured hearts for generations. At just 451 metres, this modest peak nevertheless delivers mountain experiences and panoramic rewards utterly disproportionate to its humble elevation. Its distinctive profile, visible from countless vantage points around Keswick and Derwentwater, compels visitors to climb—a siren call few can resist after viewing it from Friars' Crag on the lake's opposite shore.

Alfred Wainwright, never one for hyperbole, acknowledged Catbells' special status with unusual warmth: "It is one of the great favourites, a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together, a place beloved. Its popularity is well deserved: its shapely topknott attracts the eye offering a steep but obviously simple scramble."

That phrase—"grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together"—perfectly captures Catbells' essence. This is the fell that transforms non-hikers into mountain enthusiasts, the peak where children experience their first summit, the route that proves you don't need extreme altitude for extreme views. Yet calling Catbells "easy" sells it short. This is a proper little mountain, complete with steep climbs, minor scrambles and genuine mountain character—just packaged in an accessible, family-friendly format.

The Name

The fell's unusual name likely derives from "Cat Bields"—'bields' meaning shelter or home in archaic English, thus "shelter of the wildcat." Whether wildcats actually roamed these slopes remains uncertain, but the name has stuck. Sometimes written as "Cat Bells," both spellings refer to the same iconic fell, though "Catbells" as one word appears most commonly.

Location and Accessibility

Situated on Derwentwater's western shore, Catbells lies within three miles (five kilometres) of Keswick—the bustling tourist town that serves as gateway to the Northern Lakes. This proximity proves both blessing and challenge: whilst making Catbells extraordinarily accessible, it also contributes to its immense popularity and consequent parking challenges.

The fell's distinctive shape catches every visitor's attention, rising sharply and prominently above the glittering lake. From Keswick, the view across Derwentwater to Catbells creates one of England's most photographed panoramas—a vista that has inspired poets, painters and walkers for centuries.

The Route

Nearly all ascents begin from Hawse End at the northern ridge's foot. A free car park accommodates approximately 15 vehicles—woefully insufficient for Catbells' popularity, spaces vanishing early on fine days. Alternative parking exists at Braithwaite, Grange, Little Town, or Keswick itself, though all present similar availability challenges. Arrive very early, walk midweek, or embrace the scenic solution: the Keswick Launch ferry service.

The Keswick Launch offers delightful approach alternatives, departing Keswick for Hawse End landing stage in just 10 minutes. The 9:45am sailing is specifically known as "the 09:45 for walkers"—testament to how many use this civilised approach. Combining a lake cruise with a fell walk transforms logistics into experience, plus you avoid parking stress entirely.

From Hawse End, the well-maintained path climbs immediately, zigzagging up Skelgill Bank—the steepest section that rewards effort with constantly improving rearward views over Derwentwater, Keswick, Skiddaw and Blencathra. The northern ridge provides straightforward ascent with several lower 'bumps' and tiny peaks creating satisfying ups and downs.

Near the summit, the route becomes slightly scrambly—nothing technical, but requiring hands-on engagement with rock steps. Multiple route choices exist, all manageable. This brief scramble section makes Catbells feel like "a proper little mountain" rather than just a big hill. Children particularly love this bit, finding it exciting rather than daunting.

The summit itself is all rock with many loose stones amid small outcrops, marked by a trig point. The standard route takes 1-2 hours ascent, covering 1 mile (1.6 kilometres) to the summit. The complete out-and-back walk totals 3.5 miles (5.8 kilometres), achievable in 2-4 hours depending on pace and photo stops.

The Summit Views

Catbells' summit delivers 360-degree panoramas dominated by the aerial perspective of Derwentwater below—the "Queen of the Lakes" spread out in its entirety. Northward, Skiddaw and Blencathra dominate the skyline. Keswick nestles at Derwentwater's northern edge. Eastward lie Borrowdale's depths. Westward, the Newlands Valley and Coledale range. Looking right reveals Causey Pike's unusual knobbly peak. On clear days, Bassenthwaite Lake appears beyond Skiddaw.

The summit can become busy during peak season—hundreds may gather on fine weekends. Early morning offers possibilities for solitude, though Catbells' accessibility means you're rarely truly alone. Walk a short distance along the ridge from the trig point to find quieter picnic spots whilst maintaining spectacular views.

Extended Routes

Whilst many walkers return via the same route after summiting, strong walkers can extend the adventure considerably. The ridge continues southward over Maiden Moor, High Spy, Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson—creating a horseshoe walk ending in Newlands Valley near Hawse End. This extended route reveals deeper Lake District terrain with stunning ridge-line perspectives.

Alternatively, circular routes incorporate Newlands Valley, ascending Catbells before descending toward peaceful countryside paths through lush green fields and traditional stone cottages. Starting from Little Town on Catbells' opposite side provides quicker summit access via alternative routes, useful for time-constrained visitors.

From Keswick itself, ambitious walkers create 7.5-mile routes circling Derwentwater before ascending Catbells—combining lakeside walking with fell climbing for a full day's adventure.

Historical Connections

On Catbells' lower slopes above Derwentwater stands Brackenburn Lodge, now holiday accommodation but formerly home to Hugh Walpole (1924-1941). Here he penned the Herries series of books, calling Brackenburn "a little paradise on Cat Bells." The location's inspirational qualities clearly transcend generations.

Mining History and Hazards

Disused lead mines on Catbells' slopes provide historical interest but demand caution. The Yewthwaite mine on the western side features extensive spoil heaps and shafts. The Brandlehow and Old Brandley Mine worked lead ore lodes on the Derwentwater (eastern) side. All three mines ceased production in the 1890s. Many shafts were previously open and dangerous; most are now blocked, but awareness remains important, particularly when exploring off the main paths.

Path Erosion and Maintenance

Catbells' extraordinary popularity creates challenges. The National Trust continuously maintains paths suffering constant erosion from thousands of boots. The well-maintained, clear paths represent ongoing conservation work—a double-edged sword where accessibility necessitates perpetual upkeep.