Haystacks

About Haystacks

Haystacks (also written as Hay Stacks) may lack the imposing height of its loftier neighbours, yet it has achieved legendary status as one of the Lake District's most beloved fells. This modest mountain punches well above its weight, offering a summit experience that combines rugged beauty, hidden tarns, rocky outcrops and panoramic views that rival any in the Lake District. The undulating summit plateau creates a wonderland of nooks, crannies and secret places that reward exploration and contemplation.

The fell sits at the head of the Buttermere Valley, surrounded by giants including Great Gable, Pillar, High Stile and Fleetwith Pike. Despite being dwarfed by these neighbours, Haystacks commands attention through its distinctive profile and unique character. The northern face presents dramatic crags—particularly Big Stack and Green Crag—that soar above the settlement of Gatesgarth, whilst the summit area resembles a fairyland of rocky formations, crystal tarns and unexpected vistas.

Historical Significance and Wainwright's Legacy

Haystacks owes much of its fame to Alfred Wainwright, the legendary fellwalker and guidebook author whose illustrated works introduced millions to the Lake District fells. Of all 214 Wainwright fells, Haystacks held the most special place in his heart. In his Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells (Western Fells), he wrote: "For beauty, variety and interesting detail, for sheer fascination and unique individuality, the summit area of Haystacks is supreme. This is in fact the best fell-top of all—a place of great charm and fairyland attractiveness."

When Wainwright died in 1991, his ashes were scattered at Innominate Tarn near the summit, precisely as he had requested. This tranquil pool, nestled among the rocks with Great Gable as a backdrop, has become a place of pilgrimage for fellwalkers paying tribute to the man whose passion and artistry helped shape the modern appreciation of these mountains. For many, visiting Haystacks feels like a deeply personal connection to Wainwright's spirit and vision.

The Name

The name 'Haystacks' derives from the appearance of the summit cliffs. According to Wainwright's research, the name comes from the Icelandic 'stack' meaning 'a columnar rock,' and the correct translation should be 'High Rocks'—an apt description of the craggy formations that characterise this fell.

The Challenge

Whilst Haystacks doesn't demand the stamina required for higher peaks, it shouldn't be underestimated. The total ascent of approximately 591 metres involves steep sections, particularly from Gatesgarth, and the summit area features rocky, uneven terrain requiring minor scrambling in places. The route demands concentration and sure-footedness, especially around the numerous rock formations and tarns.

The most popular circular route covers approximately 7-8 kilometres and typically takes 4-5 hours, allowing time to explore the summit's many features. The classic approach ascends via Scarth Gap, which Wainwright described as "one of the pleasantest of foot-passes," then zigzags up the face of Haystacks before wandering across the varied summit terrain.

Starting from Honister Pass provides the easiest ascent, as the pass already sits at 332 metres elevation, reducing the climbing required. Alternative routes approach from Buttermere via Warnscale Beck or from the remote Black Sail Youth Hostel.

Summit Experience

The summit area itself invites wandering and exploration. Multiple rocky peaks, hidden tarns including Innominate Tarn and Blackbeck Tarn, and countless viewpoints create an engaging landscape that rewards those who take time to discover its secrets. The terrain varies constantly—scrambling over boulders, crossing becks, navigating between rock formations—making the experience far more interesting than a simple trudge to a single summit cairn.

Views from the top encompass the entirety of Buttermere and Crummock Water, the imposing presence of Great Gable and Gable Crag, distant Skiddaw peering between Hindscarth and Robinson, and the western panorama toward Ennerdale Water. On clear days, the vistas extend far beyond the immediate fells, offering a 360-degree perspective of Lakeland majesty.